How it started.
How it ended.
Oldie but a decent one overall. 5’7”
Back testing some old fins, and testing some new fins. On the verge of some easy to ride boards that surf dynamic
19hr days.
New board went surprisingly well. Was excited to feel the rocker, but the outline was what stood out as surprisingly on point. Wider in the right places for a modern feel, but sensitive enough in the right places by not being to wide.
Wing with more of an angle on it.
2hrs before sunrise.
Last boards of the year being shaped. Acquired many new shaping clarity and skills this year.
Prototype on left, spring break on the right .
Insane amount of guys at Pipe.
More wings.
Ray Dalio
Heavy. Sunset Contest at Vals reef. Which is a little slab of reef right near the shoreline.
Evening sesh. Not one soul out.
3:40 am wake up to get the morning routine done, straight into a dawn patrol.
First session together since June.