Dawn

Snappers, so crowded.

Out of season south swell. Testing some pretty good old designs to see if they stand out again, 5’8 x 18.75 x 2.32 x 25.81. Decent nose rocker, low tail rocker, groveler concave and V bottom, with a hip bump. Large AM’s.

Such a hard day to surf.

Swell directions and wall angles were very weird.

Awkward first turn to reset back in the wave. The round tail held in well on the last section hit.

Definitely more water coming at you on the rights, which was tough. But the round tail let the board get precise and navigate the wind factor as well.

New year, new day, brand new board. 5’9 x 18.75 x 2.32 x 25.79 VS2 round tail

Set of VS2’s for north swells

Mexico rushes for Kapu Ping. 5’6 , 5’9 VS1 , 5’10 VS2 round tail.

Start / Finish

Rest easy Uncle Eric. You were always so easy to talk to, and real.

You did everything to support your son and I always respected that.

I will always remember.

Much love Marvin. I can vividly remember sessions together. I will never be able to surf your spot without thinking of you. You were always so supportive to many. You left to soon, I hope you can rest easy now on the other side.

Have not ridden these fins in beyond forever. Ended up a pretty decent sesh on it.